Collection of Peggy Moffitt. It comprises handwritten letters, telegrams, clippings, drawings, and other ephemera, offering an interesting glimpse into Gernreich’s life, and conveying his political involvement in civil rights movements. Exiting the exhibition, visitors get a last peek into Gernreich’s ideas. Art Museum (602) 257-1880. info@phxart.org. This is standard practice for shared projections or shorter clips. 5 Howick Place | London | SW1P 1WG. Photo credit: Danny Moloshok, courtesy of the Skirball Cultural Center. Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich presents more than 80 gender-fluid, body-positive designs by a ’60s-mod legend who revolutionized perceptions of beauty, gender, and identity. Caftan, 1970. Courtesy of the Skirball Cultural Center. “Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich” runs through September 1, 2019. Two ensembles stand out as an homage to the women who challenged the gender status quo, during the 1830s and the 1930s. Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich. (Right) Rudi Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear. The monokini, a topless swimsuit created in 1964, was said to signal the end of morality in the US and is shown in “Swimsuits & Undergarments” (Figures 5–6). The section showcases two black knitted leotards and three caftans. As its name indicates, the “Duotard” is designed for two bodies, joined by the hips and one inside leg. Figure 6 Peggy Moffitt modeling the topless swimsuit designed by Rudi Gernreich, 1964. Figure 3 Central runway in the gallery with projection of a fashion show. He started his career as a dancer in the Lester Horton Dance Theatre, and soon transitioned into costume and fashion design, working for Edith Head, Adrian, and Hattie Carnegie until he launched his collection in 1948 with manufacturer Walter Bass. Therefore, it is unclear as to what extent Gernreich’s work was fetishized by a circle of connoisseurs or widely picked by consumers. The museum’s press release emphasizes that Gernreich’s iconic monokini catapulted him into celebrity through the controversy it created. The 'fearless fashion' of Rudi Gernreich “Fearless Fashion is such a timely and important exhibition,” Helen Jean, the museum’s curator of fashion design, said in a press release. Rudolph “Rudi” Gernreich was one of the most prominent fashion designers of the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s. Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén is a transdisciplinary scholar working in the intersections of fashion, media, and cinema studies with a business lens. Overall, the exhibition is well worth visiting, due to the attractive balance between oral history, garments, ephemera, and the visual display. Show Map. The retrospective, “Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich,” is at the Skirball Cultural Center through Sept. 1. Despite not being an instantly recognisable name, Rudi’s designs are known all over the world. SEP 26. On view at Phoenix Art Museum April 7, 2021 - September 26, 2021 This fostered an amalgamation of industry, arts, and politics not only in the fashion front but also in many other cultural industries. “Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich offers a significant opportunity to explore how fashion has the power to effect social change,” says Tim Rodgers, PhD, the Sybil Harrington director and CEO of Phoenix Art Museum . Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich is organized and circulated by … Figure 8 Frontal runway view. It was curated by Bethany Montagano, assistant curator Dani Killan with fashion designer and creative adviser Humberto Leon. His idea, it is explained, was to create garments that could be used interchangeably by all genders, such as leotards or caftans. The installation consists of seven sections that are organized chronologically and thematically. Similarly, waiting for the looped playback to restart did not benefit engagement. Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich features more than eighty ensembles - including the monokini, the thong, unisex clothing, alongside original sketches and drawings, letters and personal papers, photographs of his family, friends, and colleagues. Life isn’t pretty. Rudi Gernreich: Fearless Fashion Renegade and Los Angeles Icon Gernreich’s designs -- clothes that come from a place of meaning, with a radically hopeful view of the future -- are the perfect antidote to the increasingly nihilistic contemporary runways. The exhibit succeeds in making this point. FEARLESS FASHION: RUDI GERNREICH April 7 - september 26, 2021 STEELE GALLERY. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Vol 24, Issue 5. Figure 11 Rudi Gernreich fashions at the Wiltern, 1985. Figure 4 Peggy Moffitt modeling George Sand pantsuit designed by Rudi Gernreich, Fall 1967 collection. Photos: Robert Wedemeyer. Four years later, he began a life-long relationship with Harvard graduate and UCLA Professor Oreste Pucciani (1916–1999). Figure 5 “Swimsuits & Undergarments” section. Currently at the Skirball Cultural Center Museum, there is an amazingly beautiful exhibit titled Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich displaying the work of this talented and daring Austrian-born American fashion designer. Hide Map. Continuing towards the third section of the exhibition, visitors discover that the black panel behind the three circular platforms hides a catwalk for “The Minis, Mods & Pantsuits” display that presents Gernreich’s support for second-wave feminism and equal rights. The “George Sand” ensemble consists of a jacket, vest, blouse, pants and skirt in brown textured velvet (Figure 4). The 1966 words of Rudi Gernreich summarize his interest in fashion not merely as a commercial product but more importantly, as a force to open discussions about social change: “I’m totally unconcerned with skirt lengths. The racks in the “Concept to rack” section could use some improvement. Healing Arizona Veterans to fund treatment of Vets with Traumatic Brain Injury Posted 14 hours ago; Flinn Foundation Selects 20 Excelling Arizona Students as 2021 Flinn Scholars Posted 14 hours ago; Arizona Gives Day Generates Record $7.1M for Nonprofits Posted 2 days ago; Southwest Autism Research & Resource Center Expanding to Scottsdale Posted 1 week ago While the interactive wall is ingenious, and the idea of conveying off-the-rack through the hangers gives the illusion of entering an open closet, the displayed garments cannot be fully appreciated, as a line on the floor marks where visitors can stand to refrain them from touching the pieces. Shop items inspired by the fashion-forward looks of Rudi Gernreich as seen in the exhibition Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich. On the walls, quotes by Gernreich frame and introduce each of these sections. Courtesy of the Skirball Cultural Center. Courtesy of Skirball Cultural Center. It was curated by Bethany Montagano, assistant curator Dani Killan with fashion designer and creative adviser Humberto Leon. Note. By closing this message, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Photograph © William Claxton, LLC, courtesy of Demont Photo Management & Fahey/Klein Gallery Los Angeles, with permission of the Rudi Gernreich trademark. Gernreich, a Viennese Jew, immigrated to the United States from Austria in 1938, fleeing the … The photo-op wall featuring Moffitt’s contact sheet could be set apart, in a way that allows people to play with it without blocking the path for those who are contemplating the mannequins. They offer lots of fabulous fair trade Judaica including Dunitz kippot. 1625 N Central Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85004. The new Skirball Cultural Center exhibition “Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich” celebrates his life and work. For this campaign, he asked his models to shave all body hair as he wanted to strip away culturally imposed gender markers. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1664527?scroll=top&needAccess=true, Dramatiska och utmattande: Nio månader av Corona-nyheter i sociala medier. Fearless Fashion is the title of the exhibition that explores the life and career of fashion designer Rudi Gernreich (1922–1985). Sun 10:00 AM. Rudi Gernreich with Peggy Moffitt modeling the “Marlene Dietrich” pantsuit, 1964. Gernreich’s use of vibrant colors and designs allow for immediate visual gratification for a quick walkthrough. "Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich" is currently on view at the Skirball Cultural Center, and it's well worth taking in. As these videos were intended for individual viewing, having control over their reproduction would have enhanced the experience. We use cookies to improve your website experience. Skirball Cultural Center, Los Angeles, 9th May 2019–1st September 2019, Register to receive personalised research and resources by email, https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1664527. Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich. ticket. Clothes can’t be pretty little things.”. In the era of fake news and mediated social interactions, we cannot let the allure of fashion distract us from significant matters. However, the low placement of the video screens makes it uncomfortable for watching five-minute long clips. Within each, the garments are presented in stations, equipped with a small screen and headphones playing interviews with dancers, former models, and Gernreich himself. This exhibition attempts to exalt this symbiosis of art and political activism by focusing on the social and cultural impact of Gernreich’s work and political agenda. Photo credit: Danny Moloshok, courtesy of the Skirball Cultural Center. Photo by Danny Moloshok, courtesy of the Skirball Cultural Center. The issue is flying to the moon, killing men in Vietnam, teenagers pouring kerosene over Bowery drifters and setting them on fire. Get Directions. The white “swan” leotard and red “Duotard” frame the scene and introduce the second section, “Dance & Theatre.” Gernreich’s interest in freedom and movement through the costumes is put forward in his designs for Bella Lewitzky’s Dance Company performance of Inscape. He founded the gay rights Mattachine Society in 1950, with Harry Hay. Photograph © William Claxton, LLC, courtesy of Demont Photo Management & Fahey/Klein Gallery Los Angeles, with permission of the Rudi Gernreich trademark. One of the walls is installed like a contact sheet with Peggy Moffitt, Gernreich’s favorite model and muse, and features a large white square for visitors to take their own “contact” pictures (Figure 7). Exhibition Review: Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich, Skirball Cultural Center, Los Angeles, 9th May 2019–1st September 2019. Available from: 2019-09-19 Created: 2019-09-19 Last updated: 2019-11-14 Bibliographically approved This is a homage to French Novelist Lucile Aurore Duping (1804–1876), who assumed a male pseudonym to pursue her career as a writer. From April 7 through September 26, Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich at Phoenix Art Museum will present over 80 gender-fluid, body-positive and provocative designs by 1960s mod-legend Rudolph “Rudi” Gernreich, who is best known for revolutionizing perceptions of beauty, gender and identity. Under the image, a quote from 1964 reads: “It was about changing culture throughout society, about freedom and emancipation.”. Figure 7 Concept to Rack section with photo-op for visitors. The disposition, selection, and presentation of the exhibition are well accomplished, easy to follow, and entertaining. Shop items inspired by the fashion-forward looks of Rudi Gernreich as seen in the exhibition Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich. People also read lists articles that other readers of this article have read. Recommended articles lists articles that we recommend and is powered by our AI driven recommendation engine. However, in attempting to portray him as a revolutionary activist to a celebratory extent, curators have detached his work from a broader historical context. Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich explored the visionary and progressive ensembles that transcended rigid social expectations and championed authenticity above all. Fearless Fashion is organized into seven sections that, together, chronicle Gernreich’s rise to prominence and underscore how his designs revolutionized the understanding of beauty in the fashion industry. ‘Fearless Fashion’ Gernreich’s life and fashions will be on display at The Skirball Cultural Center in “Fearless Fashion: Rudi Genreich.” Gernreich envisioned an era in which designers would become technicians, engineers able to spray clothing onto the body (Palomo-Lovinski 2010, 120). an Austrian-born American fashion designer whose avant-garde Figure 9 (Left) Rudi Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear. Don't miss. His revolutionary designs and avant-garde collections embodied his vision of fashion as a liberating force that defied conventional ideas of beauty, identity and gender. The final section, “Experimental Fashion & Legacy,” focuses on Gernreich’s innovative use of zippers and dog leashes as accessories – yet unrelated to a contemporary Punk aesthetics (Figure 10). Unisex ensemble by Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear, 1970. Gernreich was a dancer with the Lester Horton Dance Theater (1942 to 1948) who also designed costumes for Horton. MST. Becoming Rudi Gernreich follows the designer from his childhood in Vienna through his immigration to the United States in 1938. Upon the designer’s death in 1985, his partner of more than three decades established the ACLU Rudi Gernreich-Oreste Pucciani Endowment Fund to support the fight for LGBT rights. Registered in England & Wales No. Fearless Fashion is the title of the exhibition that explores the life and career of fashion designer Rudi Gernreich (1922–1985). “Fashion, as we know it, is dead,” the Austrian-born American designer Rudi Gernreich proclaimed in 1971. Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich, 2021, Phoenix Art Museum. This is accomplished through the combined presentation of garments and ephemera. Figure 1 “Fearless Fashion,” photo by Larry Sandez, courtesy of the Skirball Cultural Center. Returning to the runway and following the imaginary pathway leads to the section “Youth Culture & Politics,” (Figure 8) displaying his designs that were produced in reaction to protests during the 1970s, and that addressed the racial tensions and armed conflicts. If you anywhere near Los Angeles, don't miss it. These mannequins are placed in dramatic poses, emulating the dancers’ moves to illustrate Gernreich’s interest in creating garments that become one with the body. Caftan, c.1973. Rudi Gernreich papers (Collection 1702). This section is followed by “Concept to Rack,” which presents Gernreich’s work for various retailers. FEARLESS FASHION: RUDI GERNREICH. She received a doctoral degree in Fashion Studies from Stockholm University, an MA in Cinema Studies ... Castaldo Lundén, E. (2020). On view from May 9 through September 1, 2019, Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich will feature more than eighty ensembles—including the topless swimsuit, the thong, unisex clothing, and pantsuits for women—that earned Gernreich worldwide acclaim. This section also displays two highlights of his career as a swimwear and futuristic designer. Printed cotton plain weave. Rudi Gernreich is an icon without whom fashion would look very different today. The exhibit links past and present, showing that some issues remain unresolved and highlighting Gernreich’s social commentary through fashion that remains current and relevant today. The installation consists of seven sections that are organized chronologically and thematically. The combination of garments, information, audiovisual outputs, and archival material is compelling. Figure 2 Peggy Moffitt modeling dress designed by Rudi Gernreich, Fall 1971 collection. Despite showing ready-to-wear collections and collaborations with local stores, the section lacks information about these garments’ impact on consumer culture. The curators presented a full overview of Gernreich’s work, breaking away from just being the creator of the monokini. The tumultuous landscape of the 1960s and 1970s provided a fertile ground for younger generations to manifest against the impositions of the establishment. The “Claxton Dress,” a black and white maxi-dress (1971) used for the exhibit’s promotion is front and center (Figures 1–2). For those willing to learn more, engaging with audiovisual content and reading the archival material selected for each section can keep visitors entertained for hours. Wool knit. To learn about our use of cookies and how you can manage your cookie settings, please see our Cookie Policy. Figure 10 “Experimenting with Fashion and Legacy” section. While at the museum, definitely check out their museum store. The military outfit, consisting of shorts and an army shirt/minidress with large pockets and belt in camel, was accessorized with military tags and a machine gun, to protest the Vietnam war. It presents visitors with the possibility of a fast pan or a longer, more engaging experience. Photo by Robert Wedemeyer. One of the strengths of the exhibition is the integration of a vast amount of archival material loaned from the Charles E. Young Library at UCLA. Photograph © William Claxton, LLC, courtesy of Demont Photo Management & Fahey/Klein Gallery Los Angeles, with permission of the Rudi Gernreich trademark. The exhibition succeeds in presenting Rudi Gernreich as a social activist rather than merely a fashion designer. Photo Collection, Los Angeles Public Library. Caftan, 1970. Now 80 of his risqué and avant-garde outfits have gone on display at the Skirball Cultural Center in an exhibition opening Thursday, May 9, entitled “Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich.” Peggy Moffitt modeling the topless swimsuit designed by Rudi Gernreich, 1964. “In the new environment of the future, people will accept their bodies. On view at Phoenix Art Museum April 7, 2021 - September 26, 2021 Wool knit. Text panels frame an entrance that opens onto a room featuring three circular platforms in the center, each displaying one garment. Two of these caftans were designed for the Brooklyn-based company Harmon Knitwear, a fashion brand Gernreich collaborated with throughout the 1960s and 1970s. Rudi Gernreich was an early pioneer in the gay rights movement and a trailblazing fashion designer who embraced gender fluidity in the 1960s. The “Unisex Solidarity” section presents a collection of garments created in the 1970s to convey ideas of gender fluidity, highlighting utilitarian design; this implied minimalistic garments that prioritized comfort and motion. A black and white image covers the wall showing a crowd of models wearing his geometric designs (Figure 11). These garments are displayed together with brochures about the Men for the Equal Rights Amendment movement of 1972, showing the designers’ support for the feminist movement. Cited by lists all citing articles based on Crossref citations.Articles with the Crossref icon will open in a new tab. Gernreich was born in Vienna, Austria, and moved to Los Angeles with his mother at age sixteen, running away from the anti-Semitic persecution propelled by the Nazi regime. Exhibition Review: Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich, Skirball Cultural Center, Los Angeles, 9th May 2019–1st September 2019.
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